亦聽聞新酒飲Monfortino (15年或前)毫無樂趣可言, 酒莊主人幾年前亦到過香港說95年的酒仍需要開瓶2星期才能得知其真貌, 一知道到這支意大利酒皇是生人勿近時, 心中不免一寒 (因為自己也有一支95年), 但一聽到有朋友願意將手上的98 Monfortino 給我做過實驗, 還是掩飾不了喜悅. 有一星期的時間給我和它了解一下(特別鳴謝出酒讓我serve的Debby)
支酒開了9日, 以下是一點簡單的notes.
Dairy of 98 Monfortino
Day 1 (29/10): 11:30pm opened, in Chard. Glass, pour 10ml, coffee with tea in bt, in glass first bloomed with tea and tar, but very alcoholic soon after, turn towards more mint later. Very smooth in swirling with oily texture and little orange tint in the edge, brick red body.
11:50 pm cork back
00:20 drink, very tannic attack, no fruit at all, some tar, dried leaves fin.
Day 3 (31/10): 1600 uncork for smell, still dominant with dark chocolate, but with hint of sherry beneath, keep uncork.
2000 poured 10 ml color paler than day 1, 1st with mint intermixed with forest and chocolate, then 20 mins later very strong smell of medicinal (中藥味) with chocolate behind.
Drink at 2030. hard tannin at the back, very watery on palate, no acidity, seems sleeping, jz hint of dark chocolate and mint in the finishing. Some sweet aftertaste around 15 seconds, no harsh at all. Guess in the sleeping phase. Cork back then
Day 5 (2/11) 1900 uncork for smell, now more medicinal and sherry beneath, keep uncork until 2300. Quite alcoholic nose when in glass, gone a little bit for staying 10 mins. More fruit than Day 3 on palate, still a bit watery in mid-palate, more acidity at the back with some prominent tannin , seems sleeping, more complete with some game and bitter aftertaste in the finishing, which last for around 20 seconds. Seems getting up from sleeping.
Day 7 at night (5/11) 0100 uncork, drank around 2:30
More or less same than Day 5, but with more fruit, more alcoholic finish. Need more air?
Day 8 (5/11) Keep uncork until 2350 to try. Nose remain more or less the same as day 5, a little weaker in intensity perhaps due to long air. Still a little watery on palate, tea and tar seems a little step forward. Sleeping still ? and finishing towards a more dry approach. Will remain uncork until last day.
Day 9 (6/11) Still keep uncork , which is already over 40 hrs from day 7. 1240 tried last shot before gathering. Overall similar to Day 8, watery and soft, but more tea (紅茶), chocolate in finishing. Tannic finishing almost gone, and fruit still not much ongoing to evolve. Will use decanter later.
可惜的是飲到最後一滴支酒仍是重門深鎖, 只見山腳而望不到頂, 最後即便將它放入decanter 中仍然分別不大, tannin 是soften 了一點, 但typical Barolo 的mushroom/tar/tea 依舊不見, 要見98的真身看來要多一點耐性了.
很幸運的試過98 Monfortino不久有一次試88 的機會, 但這次時間趕急, 只有一日時間去開, 惟有一接到酒回家即時開酒塞, 可惜又再一次失望而回. 飲到最後一口時與98 的層次有着不少分別, 多了不少coffee taste, 係幾特別的experience.
當晚開88時的short notes:
Nose: sherry, alcoholic, background with dried rose and petrol
Palate: watery with dried herbs, some tea and tar at the back
Acidity also in the back, not much fruit giving out
Finishing: Quite mint and dry. Still plenty of time to go.
飲過兩次Morfortino, 不禁會問, 連88年也far from maturity, 要飲到多舊的酒才能見到其真身?原來飲Monfortino 被弄得丈八金剛的人還不只我一個.
http://hk.myblog.yahoo.com/jw!KluzXNGFHxnw1caKUQ.uq3gVlA--/article?mid=4237
之後我覺得Monfortino 還是用來供奉, 多於去讓我們去欣賞的, 或許釀酒的Giovanni Conterno 認為我這一小酒蟲還未有資格去替這king of Barolo 下一個結論. 我酒櫃內的95 Monfortino 還是不要打擾它吧!
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