戀上萊茵. 莫色(六)

酒莊短打:
Von Schubert (Ruwer)




係Ruwer 區既其中一個star, 飲過3款, 印象ok, 偏masculine, Abstberg 係 top site, Herrenberg 次之.
試過呢三款:
Max Grun, Von Schubert Abstberg Auslese, Von Schubert 94
Max Grun, Von Schubert Abstberg Auslese Cask 145 01Max Grun,
Von Schubert Herrenberg 05

Egon Muller (Saar)

Muller 肯定係king of Germany 亦都係我最鐘意既德白酒莊, 暫時我都未搵到可以有any replacement or any rival so far. 如果要做German wine classification 既話, Muller 就應該係1st great growth, 自成一class, 亦只有一個酒莊, 同滴金一樣.佢既酒相信亦都係overall 黎講係德白最貴既, Kabinett 已經可要成3百幾, Spaltese around 6百 (其他酒莊都係around 3百), Auslese 已經過千, TBA 一支750ml 要成3萬! 價錢可以比既白酒就只有DRC 既Montrachet / Coche-Dury 既Corton-Charlemagne (仲要係dry white). Y’qeum 都要行埋一面.

Muller 其實係Saar 既 Scharzhof (derive from a Latin word: newly cultivated land ), 唔係heart of Mosel 裡面,身處既terrior係黑色岩板為主, 飲佢地的酒會個人感覺比Mosel 區較solid 一點, 而酸度同果味真係係度踩鋼線, 兩邊高得黎又一的都冇搶過另一邊. 清爽既甜度又有razor sharp 既酸度包住, finishing 仲有物出, 絕對係pearl of Germany! 仲記得飲過佢07 Scharzhofberger Auslese, 個種震撼係好多酒都比唔到, 同埋佢個陣菠蘿味係signature, 好少Riesling 有咁既味. 但幾時先有$$ 試到佢既Auslese Goldkap BA/TBA/Eiswein?

另一個Muller 係德國既出品, 係Muller 租Le Gallais酒莊既Wiltinger Braune Kupp 呢塊monopole，好少見, 價錢/質數同佢既主打 Scharzhofberger 都有距離, 但都好想試下!




都飲過少少Muller 既Spatlese/Auslese, Spatlese 試過03-07Overall :05 >04 > 07 >>06 > 0305 係perfect vintage, 亦係最貴但酸度亦最高, 04 mineral 好出, 成個palate 包住,有少少 small scale of Auslese 既感覺. 07 好多人都話係German great vintage, 但飲完就覺同 04/05 有一段距離, good but not great, 甜度稍高一點. 06 收割時Saar 有hailstorm, 所以的酒骨架不足, 偏watery. 03 係大熱年, 亦係最平既, 酒預左偏甜同冇乜acidity, 但呢個價錢又係冇投訴!
Auslese 淨係試過 97, 06, 07 (Auslese 開始貴, 小弟窮買唔起)Overall :07 >> 06 > 97

Fritz Haag (Mosel)Fritz Haag 有兩塊top site, Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr 係最好, 其次係 Brauneberger Juffer (係唔同田黎)個人覺得佢的酒既style 好易please 到大家, 會油感較多, 相信飲開chardonnay 既人會較易接受佢（難怪美國人咁鐘意!）, 陳年後佢會有好大陣既燒膠味出 (新酒breath 耐的都會有呢隻味). Overall 平均水準高, Bulk wine 好飲過Loosen ,但暫時仲未飲到佢一支好好飲既出品, 佢支07 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr BA 太新, 05 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr A Goldkap 就closed 左!




Dr. Loosen (Mosel)我誤會左呢個莊好耐, 試過佢好多隻新年份既bulk wine 真係冇乜邊支好得, style 好commercial, 的甜味個人覺得有少少 artificial tim! 但其實佢係好似Burgundy 咁有分1er cru 同grand cru, 佢的1er 就麻麻地, 但grand cru (Erdener Pralat) 就得la!一定要提呢支:



07而家飲會太新但好明顯睇到佢同其他田既分野! Red slate soil, Bravo! 仲有係佢既Wehlener Sonnenuhr 06 TBA 都相當不俗




SMELL/NOSEINTENSITY = MED (+), DEVELOPING (發展緊複雜性香氣, 假以時日, 還會更好)

AROMA : 好強既蜜糖 (阿佛講係野花蜜添) + 菊花, 果皮 (有些少甘甘地味)/橙皮, 帶有少少荔枝 & 白蘭花, 臨尾果下再聞, 雪梨味開始緊追返上去.

PALATE中厚, SWEETENESS = LUSCIOUS, ACITDITY = MEDIUM +雪梨, 蜂蜜, 吉仔, 少少玫瑰籽, 果皮 (味道帶甘), LENGTH – 帶有幾長既香甜花香向口中浪下浪下…


點會唔少得呢支:




TN:


integrated and well balanced sweetness, acid and mineral, taste like they alternate on the palate . It got a taste of lemon, citrus peel then evolve to 菠蘿冰, follow with a light 甘油 taste . The mineral and acid lingers on and on for minutes...bringing you up into the heavens


係呢度順手講下佢的田點記/讀

病卡思偷的板岩(Bernkasteler Lay)- The Slate of Bernkastel

瓜柴的天空國 (Graacher Himmelreich)- The kingdom of Heaven

威能的日規 (Wehlener Sonnenuhr (VAY-len-er ZON-en-ooer) )-The Sundial of Wehlen

魚之家的香草園(Urziger Wurzgarten - 或音譯 魚之家‧烏郊藤)- The spice garden of Urzig

大地的梯階(Erdenner Treppchen)- The little staircase of Erden

大地的主教(Erdener Pralat)- The Bishop of Erden